Keel laying

Hull

So this week end, we went to buy more epoxy and some fiber glass to finish the hull. After turning it up side down and some sanding, we filled in all shines. This week, we will need to sand this clean and smooth and apply the fiber glass straps on the outside shines. After more sanding we will lay the final fiberglass wooven cloth.

Status tonight

Inside is almost finished. Still a few hours for fileting and fiber glass.

Next week we will finish the bowsprit to make it strong and removable.

Bowsprit

I was wondering where and how to install the attachement point for the bobstay (around the first chine on this boat)?

I can screw in a stainless steel ring. But I do not like this solution. The stay pulls in the wrong direction and I am not sure to be able to dismantle it due to the post glued right behind it.

I have seen pictures of modern catamaran where such stay is directly attached to the hull with a simple hole through the bow. Very strong solution, very light, nothing protruding... We will think about it!

Forward deck

One more deviation to talk about... On the original drawing, there is a forward bench, made for rowing. As we mainly plan to sail, we decided to replace the bench with a deck. The opening in the frame A will be closed by a 10" hatch.

The forward post goes through the deck and will be glued to the bow.

The aft frame C will also be closed with a small 4" hatch.

Aft bench

I always wondered from the original drawing, how it was possible to install the aft bench. There is a filet inside, but no real access...

After thinking probably too much about it, we decided to glue pieces of wood along the 4 sides (hull stbd and port, transom and frame C). The bench; once cut will come and rest on these support at the right place. We will then filet the external side of the bench and put some fiberglass to reinforce everything.

Mid bench

We made good progress over the past few days. The bench is in place. We deviated one more time from the orginal drawing. The wood beams that goes accross the boat to support the bench are cut at dagerboard case. We managed to keep it in one piece.

The mast, boom and gaff planks are all cut and glues together, nice and as strait as it can be...! Now it will be long work to make them round

Gunwall

I wanted to install the inboard gunwall 15 mm x 35 mm in one go... But I found it difficult and was afraid to damage the fragile nut...

So I cut 2 pieces of wood 7.5 mm x 35 and will instal them in 2 steps instead of 1.












Starboard gun wall is in place with thickned epoxy.

On this picture, you can as well see the center frame and dagerboard cage (24 mm wide inside).

Learning curve

I found a spot on the upper chine, around the aft frame, where the chine was deviating in and out... One would not noticed, but once I saw it, I could not leave with it. With the circular saw, I reopened the chine...











And then play a bit, open here and close there. Once I had the right curve, all was glued together and covered with fiber glass.













That's my learning curve!

Note that I found similar problem, much more obvious on the bottom of the boat. You must be very careful with that center chine, otherwise the bottom of the boat will be looking like a wave!

Filet and tie raps

To answer the questions about the tie raps for the stiches, above is a picture of a tie rap in a fillet of epoxy. Once the epoxy is dry, you can cut or grind the tie rap.
















Once the tie rap is cut off, you can lay the fiber glass.

In areas where the wood is highly stressed, I leave the tie raps and increase the thickness of the fillet to hide the tie raps. There are great chances that the filet opens without the tie raps, prior the fiber glass is in place.

After stitches----->Glue

Frames

C'est le moment de la pose des couples.


It is time for the frames.

A shape named boat

Lorsque quatre des cinq planches sont cousues avec le tableau, voila le resultat.

After four of five planks are stitched with the transom, here is the result.

Keel laying

Pose de la quille.

Once the planks are all cut, the two first ones are stitched together. Here is the keel!

Petit scarf

Il y a trois dimensions importantes dans une planche, deux nous importe ici, la longueur et la largeur. Joindre deux planches bout a bout... Tout un programme! Le trace des planches est donne a partir d'un bord droit. Il faut donc constituer une grande planche a partir de deux plus petites. Voila le shema de pincipe du montage pour faire la decoupe du chanfrein qui va bien et une photo du collage a l'epoxy (avec chauffage, il faisait froid ce jour la).

There are three important dimensions in a plank, two are of importance here, the length and the width. Glueing two planks together is "a" task. See how we did that, easy...

Which boat?

Joel veut un bateau avec une seule voile. Pol veut un bateau avec des rames. Je veux un beau bateau, leger et facile a construire. Miracle, Internet nous permet de trouver la perle rare. Ce sera un Coble, petit bateau de peche ecossais: Northumbrian 12'6" http://www.selway-fisher.com/Cobles.htm. Avec les plans en main, nous achetons le bois chez Harwood Lumber a Houston. Pour l'annecdote, le CP marine est importe de France. Comme je connais la qualite de ce bois, je decide de diminuer l'epaisseur du borde de 6mm a 4mm. J'espere gagner une dizaine de kilos avec ce petit changement. Vu la forme du bateau, je ne pense pas que cela influencera la rigidite d'ensemble. J'ai aussi vu que la mise en forme de l'etrave n'etait pas evidente avec du CP de 6mm, cela sera sans doute moins complique avec du 4 mm. J'ai donc pris six planches de CP marine 4mm, trois de 6mm et une de 12 mm. J'ai aussi pris environ 100 m de planche de pin de 19mm x 90mm dans les quelles je ferais tout le reste.

Joel wants a boat with one single sail. Pol wants a boat with oars. I want a nice light and easy to built boat. The web allows us to find the one we need. This will be a Coble, small fishing Scotish boat: Northumbrian 12'6" http://www.selway-fisher.com/Cobles.htm. With drawings in hands, we bought the wood from Hardwwod Lumber in Houston. For the record, the marine plywood is made in France. As I know this manufacturer, I decided to reduce the thickness from 6mm to 4mm. I hope to save 20 lbs with this change. Seeing the boat shape, I doubt this will change the overall stiffness. I noticed as well that the bow shape was tricky to get with 6mm plywood. This will be much easier with 4mm planks. I bought six planks of 4mm marine plywood, three 6mm and one 12mm. I also bought around 300 ft of pine fir 3/4" x 3"1/2, in which I will make the rest.